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Ten years ago, the double-breasted was dying. It was the remit of the aging fop. It was the choice of royalty. But times, they are a-changing and the double-breasted suit is back with a bang. In fact, it’s one of the most sought-after items in the Twisted Tailor catalog. If you want to express your sartorial might, double-breasted is the only way to go.
What makes a suit double-breasted?
1. So, here’s the boring bit.
The primary distinguishing feature of the double-breasted suit is a jacket with two rows of parallel buttons. The front ‘flaps’ overlap, a ‘jigger’ holds the internal flap in place, one set of buttons closes the jacket and the second set of buttons sits there looking pretty.
The artifice may be real. But the look is tremendous. It originated from a civvy-street take on military apparel. And evolved into mobster chic before making its way into respectable – if rakish – society. It evolved some more. And now it’s evolving again.
During the 70s and 80, the double-breasted suit began to look florid. It moved from gangster class to frustrated banker bravado. Would-be Wall Street wolves made the double-breasted look their own. And the suit suffered for it. But today, with svelte profile, shorted length and flatter cut, a good double-breasted suit is sharper than a drag artist’s tongue. And twice as sexy.
With a flatter cut and wide lapels, contemporary double-breasted blazers can make your chest look broader, your physique stronger. Shorter in length, they accentuate your figure, while a skinny fit cut can produce a superb silhouette. Worn with or without waist gear, it can rise to any occasion. While an array of fabulous fabrics can make the double-breasted suit your own.
Choose a skinny-fit cut. Skinny = sharp. It’ll define your shape. And you’ll be comfortable. Because, you know, it’s what you wear anyway, right?
Make sure it fits. The shoulders of any suit should lie flat. You don’t want to look like you’ve raided your big brother’s wardrobe. You also need to be able to sit comfortably. Obvious. But worth saying.
Waistcoat? Going somewhere classy? Put on a waistcoat. That’s what the double-breasted suit was designed for. Otherwise, stick with the jacket.
Only fasten one button. Double-breasted suit jackets have up to six buttons. Unless you’re getting hitched, you only want to use one. But keep that one fastened at all times.
No one wants to see your flaps.
Coordinate your trousers. You’re wearing a suit. That should be a given.
Keep it simple. You’ve invested in a killer suit. That’s all you need. Keep your shoes clean. Put on a fresh shirt. For Christ’s sake, wash. But don’t overdo it with accessories.
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